Oregon
August 30th Alaska Airlines gets a thumbs up from me. Won't say it is awesome, but seats more comfortable than the other airlines make it a top choice. "Uncharacteristically low head winds" allow the pilot to make up for a late start out of Newark. Flew over Buffalo, N.Y. into Canadian airspace, over Michigan and Lake Huron, South Dakota, Montana, Idaho and finally Oregon. Landscape is not what I expected, subdued tan rocky mountains with just a smattering of verdant swathes in the valleys. Mount Adams and Mount Rainier visible as our 737-800 starts to follow Hood River. Trees become visible and large green patches start to dominate the view. Portland is minutes away. I hear someone say, "I don't want to leave this place" and it's my inner voice. I won't tell Dana, she will shrug it off with something like, 'but we're not even there yet!'
I rented a Jeep Wrangler from Thrifty, but the car rental places always have a disclaimer after an asterisk which reads 'or similar'. Dana and I were ready to be combative if they tried playing the switcheroo on us. We spot a small white 2 door jeep and are a bit relieved. Inside the office we are asked if we want the white jeep or a silver jeep. I leave the decision to Dana, who just can't decide and I finally ask for the silver one. It is a 4 door Sahara!
Dana chose all the hotels for this trip. Our first night is at the Nordic Inn which is located across the street from Twin Perks Espresso, thank you Dana, thank you. After check-in we head to Shari's Cafe & Pies. I have breakfast at what would be midnight eastern time. I'm ready to explore after dessert - a slice of marrion berry pie. Marrion berries only grow in Oregon and I declare them the king of berries. Dana is at her limit of being able to stay awake and we call it a night. I have been running on 6 hours of sleep myself.
August 31 Thanks to the time difference, I'm up early. We begin a 45 minute scenic drive on 84 East. From here on out, I assume all drives will be scenic. Our first stop is Danner Boot Outlet. Dana picks up a pair of hiking boots but I resist the urge to add another pair of boots to my collection. Back on the road we take an exit that says Multnomah Falls shuttle service. We were warned the parking lot was full, but I decide to take my chances and drive to the exit. I spot an empty space upon entering and drive a few hundred feet down a one-way to snag it. To get to the falls we walk through a short tunnel that goes under the highway. I take pictures of Multnomah Falls but fail to capture the spectacular view. It has to be seen with the human eye.
Next stop is Hood River. I prefer the mountains, Dana enjoys the beach. Hood River has both. It is a hidden gem. Lunch outside at Broder Ost is delicious and relaxing. If I had the chance I would move there now.
Our ultimate destination lies another 2 hours and 45 minutes away - a place named Bend. I've been told it is a most beautiful place by coworkers who lived on the west coast back in the early 90s. It is another beautiful drive which takes us past Mt. Hood, through Madras, and Redmond. Madras seemed a bit peculiar with numerous Mexican restaurants as we drove through the town in 15 minutes at 5 p.m. There are very few signs for Bend until you are a few miles from it. I am quite surprised over the change in landscapes along the way. The grassy lands before Madras were unexpected. Bend is also not how I pictured it, but lives up to everything I've been told. Clean and quiet with a population of about 92,000 inhabitants. It seems like there is enough bars and restaurants for the entire town to be out simultaneously. If fine dining and a glass of local craft beer is their vice, outdoor activities seem to be their penance. Everyone takes advantage of the beautiful weather, hiking trails and rivers for exercise.
After settling into our room, we settle down with a whiskey sampler and a pizza at O'Kanes, a whiskey/cigar bar located on McMenamins' property.
Old St. Francis School was a Catholic schoolhouse which has now been converted to a hotel, movie theater, and brewery by McMenamins. The room we stayed in was named 'Altar Boy's'. Each room is uniquely decorated in very quirky styles. It contained two claw foot soaking tubs and two showers. Super cozy and super friendly staff. Dana mentioned this hotel was a little more expensive than the rest but I didn't even ask by how much. Whatever it was, it was worth every penny.
We did have an uninvited guest in our room - a nice sized spider who came running straight towards me. I caught him, took some pictures and researched - a giant house spider, nothing dangerous. I delivered him to the front desk clerks who were taken aback.
September 01 Our first full day in Bend. The weather is perfect. We sit outside for every meal. Breakfast is at La Magie, a French bakery and cafe. The food was so good we planned on having breakfast there again. We made a new friend - Bodhi, a French Bulldog, a cute little guy who looked just like a plush toy.
Saturday is market day which is located near a beautiful building which turns out to be - Bend High School. A few local shops provide a warm up for more shopping in an area called the Mill District. It is just a short drive to this beautiful location which lies along the Deschutes River where people are floating down in various shaped tubes and flamingo floats. It contains an Imax theater, dog park and a plethora of trails.
On the way back, we stop at Dakine Hawaiian shaved ice on Galveston Ave. You can choose up to 3 flavors and add a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the bottom or sweet cream on top. The flavoring is robust but not too sweet and the smoothness of the ice is very consistent.
Once back in Bend we rest up before heading out for Thai cuisine at Noi. Dana confuses me and the waiter by ordering two meals! I'm glad she did. We shared 3 delicious plates. The garlic chicken is superb and I ravaged the plate of drunken noodles, which seem to have a subtle hint of grilled flavor.
After dinner as the sun is setting, we head to Kelly Butte in Springfield. The road spirals up this extinct cinder cone and what a fun ride it is. Maybe due to the lack of railing, Dana was starting to fret and refused to look out her passenger window. Once at the top, we were able to see all the surrounding mountains so I set up my tripod and snapped away.
After getting back to the hotel, which I feel in error by calling it that (it is so much more), we decide to try out the soaking pool. The light blue walls are illuminated by a skylight. The quirky motif continues with murals of monks performing chores in the outdoors.
To cap off the night, we head over to the cigar/whiskey bar once again, and it is a full house. There is a bridal party and people in costume (possible for brewfest). We wait patiently for a table. I order a Dark 'n' Stormy and Dana has a shot of whiskey. We explore one of the buildings on site, which has hidden passages and a secret cozy bar behind a wall.
September 02 No questions about where we are heading for breakfast - La Magie! We order the same thing - bacon bennies and hot black coffee.
A few more shops and then back to the hotel. It is a sad time. Such a wonderful stay but we have to move on. Dana drives to Sisters, Oregon. The town has an old west feel and there are tons of shops. Also, it is market day today and I find a snow cone stand. We each order one and for the first time, I can not finish my treat. It is huge!
I get back in the drivers seat of the Jeep for the next stop - Camp Sherman. The sides of the road are quickly dominated by what I think are sugar pine trees. This is how I pictured Oregon. First we stop at the Camp Store and find a huge selection of beer. I pass it all up for a container of milk and a chocolate bar. "Nothing but the hard stuff for me", I exclaimed to the check out clerk who smiles in agreement. A short drive in the Deschutes National Forest and we are at the Metolius Riverhead. It is a short walk on a path to the viewpoint. Along the way we are greeted by chipmunks and I spot a Steller's Jay. Once at the viewpoint I set up my tripod for pictures of the river with Mt. Jefferson's peak above the trees in the background.
Our first stop after 'moving in' was at La Perla for dinner which was within walking distance. Then we headed back home to meet up with Beth, a friend from Seattle who was crashing our vacation during our stay in Eugene.
September 03 Breakfast at Off The Waffle which was recommended by online searches. Seldom do I order waffles for breakfast, but when I do, it usually conjures a look of dismay from Dana. No more. These are Liege waffles - packed with caramelized pearl sugar. How good are they? The three of us went back the next morning and ordered the same thing. We usually try for as many new experiences as possible but patronizing the same restaurants was starting to become the norm on this vacation.
After breakfast we headed downtown for shopping. I spotted Potala Gate and stopped to check out this interesting shop offering meditative and ritual items. We also stopped at Will Leather Goods and Provisions Market Hall where I found truffle honey, apple cider and star anise vinegar and marrion berry jam. I also picked up a few t-shirts and bumper stickers at Made In Oregon. Not too far away was Owen Rose Garden where I set up my tripod as the girls took a leisurely stroll.
Off to Sweet Cheeks Winery just 15 miles away from the rose garden. $7 flights allows one to sample 5 different wines. The Tempranillo was my favorite, although I would not rate any of the wines I tasted 5 stars. We also ordered the Seasonal Cheese Plate plus a Salami and Olives plate. There is indoor and outdoor seating, and the hilltop offered a gorgeous view of the countryside. A band played live and there was a food truck in the parking lot. Despite the cheeky name, the logo contains a crow because the founder first planted a vineyard in Crow, Oregon. It was another beautiful day and we yukked it up taking pictures near the Sweet Cheeks sign. After taking the top off the jeep in the parking lot, I picked up the girls for the drive home.
The city seems to be sprawled out and a bit haphazard as far as zoning. You may find an awesome restaurant nestled between houses. We did not stay long enough in Eugene.
September 04 My time in Oregon thus far began to get a hold on me. This day started off by feeding our newly acquired waffle addiction. Our friend had the splendid idea of buying some Liege waffles for the road. We stopped back at the house to load up and say goodbye to our temporary home. Our first stop was at a winery named Left Coast Estate which was about an hour and a half away. The girls indulged in wine tasting, while I relaxed in the sun and took pictures of the area. The pizza was highly recommended, but we missed the kitchen.
Our next stop was to satisfy a little hobby I have - photographing WWII era warbirds. Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum is only 18 miles away in McMinnville. I was a bit dismayed to say the least when I got there. The one specimen I wanted to see the most had been sold less than 2 weeks ago and shipped back to England. The Spitfire was gone! Who would think to call a museum and ask if a plane is still there?
After the brief stop at the museum, we headed for the coast. We stopped at Tillamook Dairy, another recommendation. It is a cheese factory, restaurant, and gift shop all in one. Dana and I got in the line for ice cream while our cohort went to the food line to ask them to warm up something special for us - the Liege waffles! We sat outside and treated ourselves with waffle ice cream sandwiches. Ahh vacation, waffles for breakfast and waffle ice cream sandwiches for dinner.
Driving up the coast of Oregon will be memorable for a lifetime. It would have been about an hour if we drove straight through, but we certainly did not. The tiny towns along the coast are full of sirens luring drivers to stop and take in their serenity and charm. And then we witnessed an epic sunset. I gasped as I looked out my side window and asked Dana if she could see what I was seeing. I stopped at the next lookout point and from that vantage point, we watched the sun set atop a layer of fog floating just above the sea.
As the light of day dimmed, we headed to Cannon Beach. We parked near the beach and said goodbye to Beth, taking a few photos on the sand with Haystack Rock in the background. The Inn at Cannon Beach provided instant gratification with wild bunnies hopping up to us outside and once in our room, a spa tub inside.
September 05 We spent our first morning in Cannon Beach dining and shopping. We compared The Local Grill and Scoop's bennies to the ones we had at La Magie. Driftwood provided New England clam chowder better than any found in New England. We hit the beach an hour before low tide and were able to walk right up to Haystack Rock. The water was cold, but we enjoyed another clear day. For sunset we headed to Ecola State Park to watch the sun sink below the horizon and another stop at Driftwood for coffee and marrion berry pie rounded out our day.
September 06 Breakfast at the Creperie and a few shops before starting the next adventure. We said goodbye to Haystack Rock, the bunnies and this exclusive area of the state. 39 miles away, we stopped at Pier 39 in Astoria. It is an old cannery that now offers rooms, a pub and views of the Columbia River. To get to the building, one must drive over a wooden bridge, which I found a tiny unnerving. We wandered in and around the large building looking for our quarry. We could hear them, but not see them. We had to walk to the East Mooring Basin Boat Ramp to finally view them - a large colony of very vocal and odorous sea lions sunning themselves.
We decided to skip the Astoria Column and headed to Portland after a quick stop to purchase a few lottery tickets. It is a 2 hour drive which loosely follows the Columbia River, briefly taking us into Washington State and past a city named Vancouver. It is a relaxing drive and I notice a number of logging trucks, the first I have ever seen in my lifetime. Once again, not many signs mention our destination of Portland until we are just a few miles away. We tried to take a picture on the bridge welcoming us back to Oregon, but missed the chance. Route 5 takes a wide left turn and then there it is - the city of Portland, there is no mistaking it, even for a first-timer.
It is our first day in Portland and what an impression it will leave. After checking in to the Hampton Inn located in the Pearl District, we rushed out to see the city. A handy list of restaurants in order of distance has been printed up by the Hampton Inn which also contain employee descriptions. (all hotels need to do this) Just a few blocks away is 13th street which will be blocked off for 'First Thursday'. As artists set up tents, Dana and I decide to go to Irving Street Kitchen. Happy hour starts at 4:30 and I order a Blackberry Smash and Meatballs over mashed potatoes. Dana chooses a glass of wine and Chicken Fried Oysters. After Dana tried the food and drink I ordered - we both ordered the Blackberry Smash and meatballs for round two. While finishing our drinks we heard a band play with an instrument that had a mysterious but soothing sound. It was the Urban Shaman playing live with a didgeridoo running through effects. We purchased all 3 of their cds and then headed to the artist stands. Dana spots Keen headquarters and a look-see inside is imperative. By the time we are ready to exit, the crowds have swelled for other street band performances. There is literally dancing in the streets. I pause here to take in the spectacle.
After our fill of merriment we head to the world's largest independent bookstore, just a short walk away - Powell's Books. It is not difficult to not notice homeless people sleeping on sidewalks. I wished i was mayor of Portland, the issue would be top priority.
Oven and Shaker is our choice for a late snack. After we are seated and order a bite to eat, someone at the table next to us decides to crow about being more vegan than his comrades. As the volume starts to get a little too high, the servers locate us to another table. I am amazed at their attentiveness and handling of the situation. Our last activity for the night is a nightcap on the hotel's rooftop patio.
September 07 Tilt for breakfast - highly recommended. It is also just a few blocks from the Hampton Inn. Like most of the places we have been to in the city, it is spacious inside and offers outside seating. Ham, egg and cheese on a biscuit with coffee and a slice of bourbon peach pie. We hop in the jeep to get to our next stop, Pittock Mansion which includes a scenic lookout. Then it is off to the International Rose Test Garden. We grab a quick snack at the vendors located near the parking lot - I'm talking shaved ice again. We decide to skip the Portland Japanese Garden after hearing about a $17 entrance fee. Another short walk takes us to the Burnside Bridge area to see the park along the Willamette River. Shopping dominates the rest of the day as we explore the city. After working up an appetite we head over to Irving Street Kitchen once again and Voodoo Donuts afterward for a late treat.
September 08 Fuller's Coffee Shop provides a hearty breakfast. The waitress comments on my t-shirt which reads 'Oregon Happy Camper' and asks if it is true. I tell her I don't want to leave and she replies, "come on, we have room for everyone". This exchange reinforces my opinion on how friendly and welcoming the people of Oregon are.
It is our second Saturday in Oregon and we are lucky enough to attend our 4th public market which takes place near the Burnside Bridge. It is larger than we anticipated and the only thing stopping us from spending too much is the lack of space in our luggage.
For lunch I put the final nail into trying as many different places as we can and suggest another stop at Tilt. Their fried chicken looked delicious the day before and Dana agrees. As our last chance to explore the city rears up, we hunt for murals scattered on building walls around the city. Along the way Dana spots Stumptown Coffee Roasters and samples a nitro cold brew.
Though we are flying out today, it is a red-eye so we have all but a full day to explore. Our final destination is the Division section of Portland located in the southeast corner of the city. It is mostly residential and we think about what it would be like to live here. We stop at Bollywood Theater to satisfy our curiosity. It is a restaurant with a small spice and gift stop that plays Bollywood movies during dinner. The sun shines in through the open ceiling and outside seating area. It looks beautiful and we would have loved to dine there but we weren't ready.
We spot a store called Tibet A Gift and walk in. We wander around the first floor of the house alone for 15 minutes eyeing up treasures. Then the front door opens and the owner walks in. He tells us that he wasn't supposed to be open today, but his wife decided on a whim to unlock the door. He tells us that realty is his main profession and we talk to him for quite a while...
miles driven = 862
